Why Rocky Mountaineer’s US journey is a must for rail lovers

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Rocky Mountaineer’s Rockies to the Red Rocks rail route runs between Denver, Colorado and Moab, Utah. The scenic train journey in the USA’s southwest has a length of 354 miles (570km) and takes a day and a half to complete, including an overnight stay in pretty resort town Glenwood Springs. As the route name suggests, the geology of the region is one of its star attractions, with the Rocky Mountains, rugged canyons, russet-coloured rocks and swathes of desert visible from the train’s panoramic windows.

Click through the gallery to discover some of the standout experiences from Rocky Mountaineer's epic Rockies to the Red Rocks train trip...

1. See the Mile High City and its Capitol building

Denver, nicknamed the Mile High City after its elevation, is Colorado’s state capital and offers lots to see and do before or after riding the Rocky Mountaineer. You can join free guided tours of the Colorado State Capitol – a grand domed building designed by Elijah E. Myers and opened in 1894. From there it’s a five-minute walk to Denver Art Museum, whose collection of Indigenous works and depictions of America’s West are among its highlights.

2. Start the journey at Denver Train Siding

The Rocky Mountaineer begins or ends its Rockies to the Red Rocks route from Denver Train Siding at 36th Street and Wazee Street. After coach transfers from their hotel, passengers are greeted by members of the crew and warmly welcomed on board. The train is made up of single-deck SilverLeaf carriages, which have comfortable leather seats and panoramic oversized windows that make it easy to enjoy the scenery along the route. 

3. Ride the Big 10 Curve

The line that the Rocky Mountaineer runs on is not only incredibly scenic, it's also remarkable for feats of engineering, including the Big 10 Curve, which was built in the early 1900s and is located around 20 miles (32km) from Denver. Named after the degree of tightness along a section of track with a 2% incline, the curve helps minimise the distance travelled on the climb into the Front Range of the Rocky Mountains. Looking back provides fine views of distant Denver and its suburbs far below.

 

4. Snap verdant landscapes in the tunnel district

The journey into the Front Range of the Rocky Mountains includes travelling through a 13-mile (21km) stretch of track known as the tunnel district. Completed in 1904, it features 30 tunnels that were hand-blasted through rock. Rising towards the Continental Divide – the mountainous spine of North America – provides opportunities for you to step into the vestibule and breathe in the fresh mountain air, and to photograph the dramatic landscapes.

5. View Gross Reservoir in the Rocky Mountains

The Gross Reservoir is on the eastern side of the USA’s Continental Divide. Its water is pumped from the western side, through the access tunnel constructed for workers building the six-mile (10km) Moffat Tunnel that slices under the divide. On one side, water flows into the Pacific while on the east it drops towards the Atlantic. The tunnel is named after David Moffat, who invested his fortune in constructing the Denver, Northwestern and Pacific Railway.

6. Spot the Elizabeth Kurtak Art Gallery in Fraser, Colorado

Journeying on the Rockies to the Red Rocks route means you can sit back and enjoy viewing both rural and urban scenery. The route snakes through Winter Park, a Colorado ski resort that in 2006 became the USA’s highest incorporated town. Nearby Fraser is home to historic wooden buildings typical of those constructed by settlers in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. One such building is now home to the Elizabeth Kurtak Art Gallery (pictured), a local artist's studio and gallery who specialises in watercolour. 

7. Enjoy insightful commentary from a Rocky Mountaineer host

Intermittently, the hosts who serve food and drink on board the Rocky Mountaineer also pick up a microphone to highlight points of interest along the route. Their commentary provides fascinating insights into the heritage of the railway line, history of places and details relating to nature and geology. They also receive notifications from crew members in other carriages about wildlife sightings, which can include the likes of bald-headed eagles, Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep and pronghorns – the fastest mammals in North America, who can run at speeds close to 60 miles an hour (97km/h). 

8. Eat tasty, locally sourced food

The rugged scenery is not the only highlight of the journey. Tasty meals are served to passengers at their seats, with dishes made from locally sourced ingredients, including peach cobbler made with Palisade peaches, beef from local cattle and freshly baked items from Glenwood Springs. The menu is available in the seatback and is explained by the chef, who makes a round of the carriage to take passengers’ orders shortly before the service. The food is paired with regional beer and wine, with options also from elsewhere in the United States.

9. Follow the Colorado River's westward flow

Much of the Rockies to the Red Rocks’ route skirts the USA’s fifth-longest river. On the journey out of Denver, the train picks up the westward flow of the Colorado River near Byers Canyon. At Gore Canyon, the track runs alongside fast-flowing rapids that pose a challenge even to experienced white-water rafters. Elsewhere, the route swings across plains and through steep-sided valleys, including Burns Canyon – named after the trapper and settler Jack Burns.

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10. See rugged canyon walls near Dotsero, Colorado

The landscape between Burns Canyon and Dotsero is both rugged and beautiful. You can view red sandstone reflecting in placid water as well as scrub-topped stratified hills looking much like the stereotypical bandit country of Western movies. Railway aficionados may know that the Dotsero Cutoff was completed in 1934. It provides a connecting line between the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad, which operated the highest mainline in the USA, and the Denver and Salt Lake Railroad.

11. Sweep alongside Interstate 70 in Glenwood Canyon

Glenwood Canyon is undoubtedly one of the most dramatic stretches of the Rockies to the Red Rocks journey. The high-sided canyon twists for 12.5 miles (20km) on the eastern approach to Glenwood Springs. The train windows give you views of the impressive civic engineering facilitating Interstate 70's sweep alongside the Colorado River. Close your eyes for much more than a blink and you’ll miss seeing Shoshone Generating Station – a hydroelectric power plant.

12. Stay overnight in Glenwood Springs

You’ll stay overnight at a hotel in Glenwood Springs, no matter whether you are heading towards Moab or Denver on the route. That means an opportunity to soak in one of the resort city's hot spring pools. Nomadic Ute people were aware of the healing properties of the geothermally heated, mineral-rich water long before the arrival of the railroad in 1887, which transformed Glenwood into an early wellness destination.

 

13. See John Henry ‘Doc’ Holliday's headstone

The Rocky Mountaineer has a pre-dawn departure when heading west to Moab, which means you’ll need to visit Linwood Cemetery in Colorado the night before if you want to see John Henry ‘Doc’ Holliday’s headstone. One of the best-known names of America’s Wild West era, Holliday was a dentist turned gambler and gunslinger who participated in the infamous gunfight at the OK Corral. Suffering from tuberculosis, he headed to Glenwood Springs seeking a cure and died here in 1887. 

14. Breathe in the morning air near New Castle

Hot coffee and tea is provided on the platform at Glenwood Springs station ahead of the westward journey on the second day, where the rush of cool morning air in the vestibule may also help snap you awake. The hills around nearby New Castle are famed for being the location of a coal fire that has smouldered underground for more than a century. Methane caused an explosion in the Vulcan Mine in 1913. Intermittently, smoke is seen above ground.

15. Experience a golden sunrise over the Colorado River

You won’t regret the early start once you see the sun ascending over the rolling hills that rise into the White River National Forest, which sprawls across 2.3 million acres and has 11 ski resorts. Photographers have long known that the hour after dawn is often rewarded by spectacular imagery and passengers aboard the Rocky Mountaineer get to see why at the beginning of the second day. Water vapour sometimes rises off the Colorado River at this hour, reminiscent of steam billowing from a hot bath.

16. Appreciate geology in De Beque Canyon

In 1884 Dr Wallace De Beque, a Canadian who was a veteran of the American Civil War, settled in the place that now bears his surname. The location which he moved to with his third wife is at the eastern end of a tight-sided canyon that's also named after him. The De Beque Canyon curves for 15 miles (24km), offering ample opportunities to capture the red-orange hues of sun-kissed, stratified rock as the train rolls through.

17. Roll through Colorado's oldest wine producing region

Most Americans associate peaches with the state of Georgia, yet Coloradans tend to swear that those from Palisade are sweeter and juicier. The area gets its name from the fortress-like Palisade rock (pictured), whose steep sides formed from Mancos Shale. It was at Rapid Creek, near Palisade, that Colorado’s first vineyard was established in 1890, with Zinfandel and Muscat grapes among the varietals planted. Passengers on board the train have the opportunity to sample Coloradan wines while travelling through the area.

18. Cross the Utah-Colorado state border

A modest hand-painted sign marks the site of the Colorado-Utah state border, the white capital lettering daubed on the gently meandering red sandstone of Ruby Canyon. Nearby, indentations in the cliff face provide evidence of Indigenous habitation long before European settlers made their way westward. The marks provided a way of reaching dwellings high above the valley floor. The area remains important to Ute people who were resettled on reservations.

19. Experience the arid beauty of eastern Utah

The train provides unimpeded views of eastern Utah’s arid landscape. On seeing the sun-baked yellow grass, dusty earth and slowly crumbling mudstone cliffs, cartoon fans might be forgiven for thinking that all the scenery is lacking is a not-so-wily coyote chasing a beeping road runner. The inhospitable climate played a role in turning Cisco into a ghost town. It’s now rebounding as a place where artists can express their creativity.

20. Tour rock formations in Arches National Park

The Rockies to the Red Rocks rail journey ends at Moab Train Siding, with the entrance to Arches National Park lying on the way to Moab. Late afternoon is an optimal time to tour the eroded rocks that give the park its name. From the siding, Dead Horse Point State Park lies in the opposite direction along Highway 313. It was there that the scene of the Ford Thunderbird driving into the canyon was filmed for the 1991 movie Thelma and Louise.

21. Go off-road in the hills above Moab

Moab has evolved into a thriving adventure tourism destination. At the outset of the Atomic Age, the surrounding area attracted prospectors and became a hub for uranium mining. Horse riding, river rafting and rock climbing now number among the activities that visitors can try. Off-road driving in buggies and four-wheel vehicles, including Hummers operated by the Moab Adventure Center, offer a way of exploring dusty hills on the edge of town. And dark skies mean that the fun doesn’t stop with nightfall either. 

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