The secret history of the Black Forest, Germany’s most magical region

Spectacular Schwarzwald

Just like its eponymous cake, Germany’s Black Forest is rich, dark and indulgent. Here, looming mountains stand shoulder-to-shoulder with dense forests, rumbling falls and seemingly bottomless lakes, while deeply cut gorges open up into fragrant meadows, moors and expansive wilderness. Tucked in and around are charming timber-framed towns and sleepy villages plucked straight from a Brothers Grimm tale, where historic crafts and customs quietly live on.

Click through the gallery to discover our ultimate guide to Germany’s most fabled natural wonder...

Black Forest 101

Bounded by France, Switzerland and the Rhine Valley, the Black Forest lies in the southwesternmost corner of Germany in the Baden-Wurttemberg region. It’s the largest and highest-altitude low mountain range in the country, spanning 6,897 miles (11,100km) in area. More than one hundred peaks pierce the sky at 3,281 to 4,898 feet (1,000-1,493m) tall in the Schwarzwald, with its highest point being the Feldberg. Flying into Basel, Karlsruhe/Baden-Baden, Strasbourg or Stuttgart airports offer the best onward connections for the Black Forest.

How did the Black Forest get its name?

The Romans called this part of the world “Silva Nigra”, meaning “black forest” in Latin, and the name stuck for the rest of time. Thickly clothed in brooding spruce trees that block natural light, this area was once a no-go zone for superstitious locals who believed in witchcraft and the paranormal. At certain times of day, the evergreen forest does still appear ink-black, but it has mostly since shed its ancient, foreboding reputation.

Back from the brink

With the dawn of the Middle Ages, any stock put into ghost and fairy stories of the forest had dissipated. Instead, the attitude towards the Schwarzwald became one of unchecked hostility: green spaces were not favoured in medieval society, so the Black Forest’s trees were ravaged for timber. By the beginning of the 19th century, nature was heavily romanticised by writers like the Brothers Grimm, musicians and landscape painters, which triggered tree-planting schemes to replace what had been lost. Now, the forest is a treasured sanctuary for escape and respite.

The stuff of fairy tales

Born in Hanau in the German region of Hesse towards the end of the 18th century, siblings Wilhelm and Jacob Grimm penned some of the world’s most enduring (and creepy) folktales. Their story Hansel and Gretel, which follows two children as they lose their way in the woods and stumble upon the edible home of an evil witch, is said to have been inspired by the ominous nature of the Black Forest.

Fit for a prince

Baden-Wurttemberg might not have the regal legacy of neighbouring Bavaria, but there are still a number of stunning castles and palaces in and around the Black Forest that are open to visitors. Schloss Karlsruhe is perhaps the most grand; remodelled in the Baroque style in the late 18th century, it has a similar creamy yellow facade to the mighty Schonbrunn in Vienna. Today, it houses the Baden State Museum. Perched on a promontory with sweeping views of the Schwarzwald, Hohenzollern Castle (pictured) is the ancestral seat of the Prussian royal house and a dramatic example of Gothic Revival architecture.

So much more than a forest

The Schwarzwald represents Germany’s highest density of large-scale protected areas. Almost all of the complete Black Forest area consists of a designated national park, two nature parks and a biosphere reserve. Together, Black Forest National Park, Black Forest Central/North Nature Park, Southern Black Forest Nature Park and the Black Forest Biosphere Reserve cover a huge and diverse area; forest is much more dense in the north, while mountains rise higher the further south you venture. In many parts of the Black Forest, there are very few trees at all, replaced with naked hilltops and gaping, grassy valleys. In total, trees cover around 60% of the entire region.

Birthplace of the cuckoo clock

More than just your average timepieces, cuckoo clocks are intricate works of art fashioned traditionally from linden wood. The design was born in the Black Forest and first imagined by 18th-century farmers, who would make cuckoo clocks in the wintertime as an additional income stream. Taking two years to construct, the world’s largest cuckoo clock (pictured) resides in the town of Schonach, where it chimes twice an hour and welcomes visitors into its interior. Even today, nearly all cuckoo clock models are produced in the Black Forest, many by generations-old family businesses. Discover more of this historic clockmaking region on the German Clock Route scenic drive.

What a nice hat

Another time-honoured Black Forest creation is the Bollenhut, a distinctive straw headdress that has been part of the traditional costume worn by women from the three neighbouring villages of Gutach, Kirnbach and Hornberg-Reichenbach since around 1750. Topped with 14 woollen pom-poms, the Bollenhut can be found in two different colours – young unmarried girls wear hats with red "bollen", while only married women can wear them in black. The Bollenhut has become a much-recognised symbol of the Black Forest and is still worn today on certain public holidays and for cultural events.

Piece of cake

We can’t talk about the Black Forest without mentioning its most famous (and delicious) ambassador. Steeped in artisanal cherry brandy (kirsch), slathered in fresh cream and garnished with chocolate shavings, the Black Forest gateau is thought to have begun life in 1915 when confectioner Josef Keller created a single-layer cake celebrating local cherries and cream, which had been historically enjoyed together in the region. This early version ultimately evolved into the deluxe gateau we recognise today. Some claim its shades of red, black and white are meant to mimic the Bollenhut costume.

More Black Forest favourites

But kirsch and Black Forest gateau aren’t the only local delicacies worth seeking out on your next visit to the Schwarzwald. Black Forest ham, with its decadent purple hue and smoky flavour, is something all meat-eaters must try, while spatzle egg noodles hail from this land too. Baden is also Germany’s third largest wine-growing region, with around 15,800 hectares of vineyards covering the areas of Ortenau, Breisgau, Kaiserstuhl, Tuniberg and Markgraflerland, which can be explored on the Baden Wine Route.

Take a hike

To experience the wild heart of the Black Forest, you need to hit the trails. There are more than 14,913 miles (24,000kms) of waymarked hiking routes here, extending from immersive barefoot paths to long-distance treks that bisect the entire Schwarzwald. The most popular is the Westweg (pictured), which starts in Pforzheim, ends in Basel, and takes the average person around 12 days to complete. There are also 53 so-called ‘connoisseur trails’ in the Black Forest, all designed around a specific theme – think waterfalls, castles and gingerbread.

Visit the ‘Grand Canyon of the Black Forest’

Wutach Gorge (German: Wutachschlucht) is the largest canyon in Germany, a rugged river valley chiselled into being by glacial meltwaters and the diversion of the Wutach River from the Danube into the Rhine. Its emerald-green and charcoal-grey landscape – called the ‘Grand Canyon of the Black Forest’ – is a highlight of the Schluchtensteig walking trail that runs through the south of the Black Forest. On the route, hikers will need to navigate the root-mottled floors of the spruce forest, so treacherous that they’re closed in winter.

Get on your bike

The Schwarzwald is super cycle-friendly, with standard bike and e-bike rental available at various points throughout the forest. Specialised cycling resorts have also been established at 16 different locations in the region, where those exploring on road, touring or mountain bikes will find well signposted and maintained cycle paths, detailed maps and scenic rest spots with unbeatable vistas. For cyclists wishing to delve deeper into the Black Forest, seasonal guided bike tours cover a range of destinations.

Ride Germany’s longest circulating cable car

Ready to whisk visitors high above the pretty city of Freiburg for amazing views of the nearby Black Forest, the Schauinslandbahn is Germany’s longest circulating cable car. From your gondola, you’ll see wide-angle views of the Rhine Valley, the vineyards of Tuniberg and Kaisertuhl, and the Vosges Mountains of Alsace in France. Standing at 4,213 feet (1,284m) high, the Schauinsland mountain summit broadens the lens even further, offering glimpses of the Feldberg, the Upper Black Forest and all the way to the Alps on a clear day.

The Black Forest’s best spa towns

The mineral-rich waters of Baden-Wurttemberg were first utilised by the wellness-savvy Romans some 2,000 years ago. As a result, several beautiful Black Forest spa towns have been built atop these steaming springs, embracing the therapeutic culture of bathing. Baden-Baden is the most talked-about; one of 11 European spa towns that gained UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 2021, its must-visit thermal bath is the Friedrichsbad. In Bad Wildbad, a sumptuous spa destination unfairly overshadowed by Baden-Baden, the Wes Anderson-esque Palais Thermal (pictured) houses a heated wooden room overlooking the Black Forest.

Sanus per aquam

Meaning “health through water”, “sanus per aquam” was what the Romans believed they’d achieve from basking in thermal baths. Spa culture in the Black Forest reaches far beyond the desirable towns of Baden-Baden and Bad Wildbad – lesser-known thermal spots such as Bad Krozingen, Bad Bellingen, Bad Durrheim, Bad Sackingen (pictured) and Bad Liebenzell each have their own restorative bathing complexes to sample, as well as picturesque outdoor spaces to wander in.

Seek out Germany’s highest waterfalls

Plunging over seven rocky tiers, the Triberg waterfalls are the highest in all of Germany. Fed by the roaring Gutach River as it drops 535 feet (163m) into an echoing valley, the falls are one of the Black Forest’s most impressive natural sights. With five different entrances to the falls, they can be admired from all angles, in all seasons and until 10pm each evening, when their nightly illuminations are switched off. The cascades, easily reached from the town centre of Triberg, are particularly powerful during the spring melt and after heavy rains.

What animals live in the Black Forest?

There are seven types of wild animal more prevalent than others in the Schwarzwald. These are the wild boar (pictured), the chamois (a goatlike creature), the deer, the squirrel, the mallard duck, the wood grouse and the wood ant. Eurasian lynx also roam the forest from time to time, but sightings are incredibly rare as they do not settle here and are solitary travellers. Even if you don’t spot one for yourself, the dedicated lynx trail just off the Black Forest High Road will teach you all you need to know about these elusive predators.

The finest lakes in the Schwarzwald

Nestled among pines, peaks and highland moors, a patchwork of lakes reflect the beauty of the Black Forest – and radiate plenty of their own too. Titisee is the largest natural lake in Schwarzwald, popular during the warmer months for swimming, windsurfing and sailing. To its southeast is Schluchsee, a reservoir and the Black Forest’s biggest lake of any kind. A tiny puddle by comparison, mysterious Feldsee (pictured) sits at the foot of the Feldberg and is rumoured to hide all manner of malevolent spirits in its depths.

Discover the myth of the Mummlein

Another lake with supposedly otherworldly inhabitants is the Mummelsee. Wrapped in Black Forest firs, legend tells that this is the domain of the Mummlein. Essentially mermaids, the Mummlein are a community of amphibious women who can walk on the land when morning comes, but who must return to their king in his underwater crystal castle at nightfall – or risk losing their lives. Under the light of the moon, it is said they dance on the surface of the Mummelsee.

Beautiful bases

While the superlative natural scenery and serenity of the Black Forest is perfect for blowing out the cobwebs, sometimes it’s nice to be around a little hustle and bustle. Fortunately, the cosy small towns and cities of Baden-Wurttemberg strike a sound balance of conviviality and character. On the south side of the Schwarzwald, Freiburg is a university city where youthful vigour meets olde-worlde charm. Romantic Gengenbach (pictured), Calw and Schiltach – all half-timbered buildings, quaint streets and bright blooms – are also not to be missed.

Sleeping in the Schwarzwald

The Black Forest’s accommodation offering is an abundant mix of sprawling holiday resorts, lavish spa hotels and homely guesthouses, as well as unique stays and woodland cottages that can be booked on Airbnb. Relais & Chateaux's Hotel Bareiss in Baiersbronn is one of the most luxurious choices, complete with nine pools, a natural pond and a three-Michelin-star chef at the helm. The tourist village of Hinterzarten also has a high concentration of 4 and 5-star hotels and resorts, including Parkhotel Adler (pictured) and Hotel Thomahof.

Roads to greatness

In addition to scenic drives like the Baden Wine Route and the German Clock Route previously mentioned, the Schwarzwald is criss-crossed by a plethora of pretty roads designed with epic road trips in mind. The Black Forest High Road, which connects Baden-Baden to Freudenstadt (home to Germany’s largest market square), was always planned as a tourism road. If you want to explore half-timbered houses, spa towns, monasteries or Roman heritage, there’s a road trip mapped out for you. Don’t fancy driving? The region is brilliantly served by trains.

Step back in time

If you want to see what life would have been like in the Black Forest centuries ago, be sure to visit the Vogtsbauernhof. Located between Hausach and Gutach, this open-air museum is centred around a collection of old farms, some of which have existed since 1570. Bakery, distillery and granary buildings have also been transported here from other settlements to complete the scene. The Schwarzwald’s mining industry dates back 800 years and at the Blessing of God silver mine in Haslach, visitors can venture into the historic underground tunnels of one of the region’s most important sites.

Explore hidden-gem destinations

Bad Teinach-Zavelstein (pictured) is one of Baden-Wurttemberg’s best-kept secrets. With secluded spas and medieval castle ruins encircled by picturesque hiking trails and dense forest, you’ll feel connected to the vastness of the Black Forest while enjoying the small town’s community spirit. Just over an hour’s drive south of here, the twin city of Villingen-Schwenningen boasts an attractive Altstadt (old town) ringed by 13th-century walls.

Winter magic in the Black Forest

It’s something of a cliche, but the Schwarzwald really is an all-season destination. It takes on an especially ethereal beauty in winter, when its spruces and slopes turn sugar-white, inviting you to don skis and snowshoes. But if your idea of winter sports is Olympic souvenir-shopping and mulled wine marathons, then look no further than the Black Forest’s colourful Christmas markets. It’s impossible not to feel festive when faced with stall upon stall of traditional German handicrafts and the smell of roasted chestnuts.

Adventure and adrenaline

Most people come to the Black Forest to relax and restore amongst nature. But if you’re looking for a heart-rate-raising high that goes beyond a hike in the hills, then the region is  excellently equipped for any thrill you wish to seek. From stand-up paddleboarding and segway tours to ziplining, zorbing and horseback riding, the spectrum of adventure sports in the Schwarzwald ranges from the relatively tame to the extreme. While travelling through the forest is astonishing enough, getting above it is even more breathtaking – try paragliding, hot air ballooning or skydiving to see for yourself.

Black Forest for families

From adventure and amusement parks to child-friendly hikes and activities with animals, big kids, little kids and their parents are equally well catered for in the Black Forest. Towering above the Black Forest Central/North Nature Park atop the Sommerberg peak, Bad Wildbad’s Treetop Walk (pictured) will blow the whole family away with its panoramas over this majestic landscape. Consider getting a SchwarzwaldCard to experience over 200 attractions within a three-day window.

Now check out our ranking of Europe's finest family attractions